Sailing map of the Tyrrhenian Sea
Sailing along the Tuscan coast offers a journey through one of Italy’s most captivating landscapes, where rolling hills meet the Mediterranean’s clear blue waters. The coastline is dotted with historic port towns, sandy beaches, and inviting coves that are perfect for small-boat exploration. With mild Mediterranean weather most of the year, Tuscany’s calm seas and inviting harbors make it an idyllic destination for small-boat sailors, offering a peaceful yet scenic way to enjoy Italy’s coastal beauty and rich history.
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"Viareggio is also the centre of luxury boat-building in Italy and one of the most important producers of superyachts in the world. Perini Navi, famous for their amazing sailing yachts, the largest of which is eighty-eight metres long, are based there, as are Benetti, San Lorenzo and VSY. There are also many other smaller specialist companies. Consequently, the harbour area was always a hub of activity, which made our lives more interesting. At one time, there was a superyacht being fitted out near us that was five storeys high!
On the other side of us was a canal that wound its way up through the town. Both sides were lined with fishing boats and tiny yachts that were moored there for free. It was a strange feeling to walk along the road with boats worth a fortune on one side of you and boats worth nothing on the other. Viareggio is full of contradictions and seemed to accommodate both quite comfortably."
The sun was just breaking over the horizon as we slipped the ropes and let the bow turn toward the Tyrrhenian Sea. The water lay calm, a sheet of molten silver under the rising light, and the faint hum of the engine soon gave way to the satisfying pull of wind in the sails. This was the start of our voyage down the Tyrrhenian Coast of Italy — a journey of discovery, challenge, and moments so beautiful they are impossible to forget.
Sailing around the Tuscan Islands is a journey through some of Italy’s most enchanting coastal landscapes, where crystal-clear waters meet rugged shorelines and fragrant Mediterranean vegetation. The archipelago, scattered like emeralds across the Tyrrhenian Sea, includes gems such as Elba, Giglio, Capraia, and Pianosa, each offering its own blend of natural beauty and rich history. From the secluded coves and sandy beaches of Elba to the dramatic cliffs of Giglio, we enjoyed a mix of tranquil anchorages and charming harbour towns where delicious cuisine and local wines await. The mild climate and steady breezes make it a rewarding sailing destination almost year-round, and the short distances between islands allow for relaxed day sails, leaving ample time to swim, snorkel, and explore ashore.
I had dreamed of sailing this coastline for years, tracing a path past ancient ports and glittering islands. What I found was far more than a route on a nautical chart. The Tyrrhenian Sea has a rhythm of its own, sometimes gentle, sometimes wild, and each port, cove, and island carries its own character and story. This voyage would later become the heart of my book, a true account of life at sea and the wonders of Italy’s western shores.
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"The next day was a special day. As we motored into Santa Marinella, it was a moment of history for us. Many years before, Jane and I had stood on that harbour wall, looking out to sea, promising ourselves that one day we would return in our boat. Now, four years later and with another 4,500 nautical miles under the keel, we had kept that promise."
Sailing along Lazio’s coast offers a unique perspective on Italy’s rich history and beautiful seaside landscapes, from ancient ruins to charming fishing villages. Starting from Rome’s closest port, Ostia, small-boat sailors can explore a mix of sandy beaches, historic sites, and tranquil anchorages.
The highlight for many sailors is reaching the Pontine Islands. The islands boast crystal-clear waters, natural rock formations, and secluded coves accessible only by boat, making them ideal for a small-boat adventure. Sailing Lazio’s coast provides a delightful mix of history, natural beauty, and the serene allure of the Italian seaside.
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"The island of Ventotene was the most extraordinary place we had ever been to. It was rugged, wild and remote, with very few inhabitants. It is easy to see why the Emperor Augustus thought of the island as a suitable place to exile his lascivious daughter, Julia the Elder. She probably arrived by galley into the old Roman harbour, which is still there, located a few metres away from the main harbour where we were moored up against the quayside. Remarkably, it is still used by the local fishing boats and is a hive of activity."
Sailing along Campania’s coast is a breathtaking journey through some of Italy’s most iconic and picturesque landscapes. Arriving at the fascinating Neapolitan islands of Ischia, Procida and Capri, along the legendary Amalfi Coast to the beautiful city of Salerno. With generally calm waters, a warm climate, and plenty of harbours for provisioning, Campania offers a dreamlike setting for small-boat adventures, blending natural beauty with history and Italian coastal charm.
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"On the other side of the bay was a fishing harbour called La Corricella. We rowed inside a protective stone wall to find the most extraordinary harbour we had ever seen. There were a number of fishing boats moored up on buoys, in what seemed to be a totally random manner. We tied the dinghy up on the wide stone quay which was covered in upturned, wooden rowing boats and piles of fishing nets. Some ancient mariners sat on rickety stools, painstakingly mending their nets while shouting at their companions in a language that sounded nothing like Italian, occasionally stopping to gesticulate wildly. Behind the quay were rows of houses, all stacked on top of each other in several tiers going backwards up the hill. They were all different shapes and sizes, in various states of repair, and painted in an array of different colours, with stairways, arches, terraces, windows and doors creating a totally chaotic effect. One house even had the front part of a boat protruding from the living room wall! We walked up some steps to the street at the top, behind the houses, and strolled the short distance down to the main port area."
"Sailing along the Amalfi Coast reminded us of sailing past Cinque Terre two years before. It had the same kind of iconic, majestic imagery that just couldn’t be mistaken for anywhere else. It was a lot hotter though! As we sailed close to a group of islands, which were more like large rocks, we could see some boats anchored in the narrow gaps between them, fishing and diving into the water. Then we went past the famous seafront of Positano, round the headland at Conca, before arriving in front of the harbour at Amalfi itself. It was like travelling along a series of postcards with each one coming to life as we passed by. But there again, the same thing could be said for much of Italy."
Sailing south across the bay of Salerno, along the coast of Cilento and past the small stretch of Basilicata is a voyage through a wilder, less-travelled side of Italy, where time seems to slow and the scenery feels untouched by the rush of modern life. The Cilento coastline, part of a UNESCO-listed national park, offers golden beaches framed by pine forests, ancient watchtowers perched on rocky headlands, and fishing villages where the scent of baking bread drifts from stone houses. As you pass Maratea, the gem of Basilicata’s short but spectacular coastline, the mountains plunge straight into the sea, dotted with hidden coves and overlooked by the towering Christ the Redeemer statue. With fewer crowds than the Amalfi Coast to the north, the sailing here is unhurried, the anchorages peaceful, and every port of call offers the chance to step ashore into a world where tradition, nature, and the rhythm of the waves are still in perfect harmony.
Sailing along Calabria’s coast offers a raw and unspoiled experience of southern Italy, where rugged cliffs, ancient towns, and crystalline waters await around every corner. Tropea’s dramatic cliffs, with its historic center perched high above and turquoise waters below, make for a breathtaking sight as you approach by boat. Small boats can find sheltered coves along this coast, perfect for dropping anchor and diving into the pristine sea. Calabria’s warm Mediterranean climate, sparsely populated anchorages, and wild natural beauty make it an ideal destination for small-boat sailors seeking a secluded and authentic Italian coastal experience.
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"We wasted no time in returning to the beach, just outside the marina, where the anchor had taken its last breath. It was a truly beautiful location, with soft white sand, sloping gently down into the warm, crystal clear water. It was the first time we had ever taken advantage of the loungers, table and umbrella that come with a ticket to the lido on Italian beaches, and it seemed like the very height of luxury. As our friend in Nettuno had said, “why would Italians need to go anywhere else?” We wouldn’t have wanted to be anywhere else either!"
If you’ve ever dreamed of sailing Italy’s Tyrrhenian Coast — or if you simply love stories of adventure, travel, and the sea — my book offers the complete account. You’ll sail with me from the first knot of rope untied to the final port, discovering hidden bays, vibrant harbours, and the timeless beauty of Italy’s western shores.
