After a few days exploring the Aeolian islands, we approached Sicily with the warm breath of summer in our sails. Sicily had always been a place we wanted to explore slowly, tracing its coasts one harbour at a time, and letting the island’s character reveal itself with each stop.
Our first landfall was Cefalù, where the great rock of La Rocca rises above the old town. The anchorage gave us a view of golden stone buildings glowing in the evening light.
Extract...
"One of the most famous towns on the northern coast is Cefalù. As we passed the harbour itself and made our way round to the famous bay in front of the town, we passed a rocky stretch of coast with a row of houses above, overlooking the sea. Some were restaurants, with tables and chairs on wooden platforms extending out over the rocks. What a place to eat dinner! Cefalù is actually one of the locations featured in Cinema Paradiso. We were excited as we anchored in the bay and immediately recognised the quay where part of the film is set. Cefalù was the first place where we first glimpsed the real Sicily."
Palermo was a shock to the senses after quiet anchorages – a busy harbour alive with ferries, fishing boats, and the constant hum of a working city. We tied up within walking distance of street markets overflowing with colour and sound, spending days wandering narrow streets before returning to the boat to watch the sun set behind the masts.
From Palermo, short day sails took us to Castellammare del Golfo, a sheltered bay backed by mountains and a lively waterfront, and on to San Vito Lo Capo with its long beach of white sand. Marsala came next, its harbour a gateway to salt pans that shimmered in the heat, followed by Mazara del Vallo where the air carried the scent of spices from North Africa and the streets reflected a history of trade and migration.
Heading south brought us to Sciacca, a fishing port where the working harbour bustled from dawn to dusk. We tied up alongside trawlers and watched the day’s catch unloaded, feeling part of the rhythm of the place. Rounding the southern coast, the pace slowed and the anchorages grew quieter.
In Gela and Scoglitti we found small harbours that welcomed passing sailors without fuss. Here, evenings were for strolling the quay and mornings for fresh bread still warm from the bakery. Each stop added another layer to our sense of what it means to sail and live in Sicily – less about ticking off destinations, more about being absorbed into daily life along the coast.
Marzamemi was one of the highlights of the east coast – a former fishing village now filled with lively piazzas and restaurants where tables spill out onto the cobbles. We anchored nearby and took the dinghy ashore, drawn in by the sound of music and the warm glow of lights in the evening.
From there, Siracusa offered a complete change of pace. Anchored in the wide bay below Ortigia, we explored streets lined with baroque architecture and markets rich with the smell of fresh herbs and seafood. Days here slipped by easily, each morning promising something new to see just a short walk from the quay.
Our final stretch took us north toward the Strait of Messina. The currents here are strong, the shipping traffic constant, and the coastline dramatic. Entering the harbour felt like crossing a threshold, knowing this would be our last Sicilian port before sailing on to new waters.
From the deck, we looked back along the route we had taken – from Cefalù’s golden stone to Siracusa’s deep bay – and realised how much this summer had given us. Sicily had been weeks of contrasts: busy cities and quiet anchorages, volcanic backdrops and soft sandy beaches, all held together by the life we carried on board.
We left Sicily with more than a list of places visited. We carried the scent of street markets in Palermo, the stillness of anchorages near Scoglitti, the sound of church bells in Cefalù, and the taste of seafood eaten with bare feet in the sand at San Vito Lo Capo. These were not just memories, they were pieces of a season lived entirely at sea.
For us, sailing Sicily was a chapter we will return to – a coastline that can be traced again and again, always offering something new. The logbook may hold the miles, but the true record is in the moments between them, written in wind, salt, and the warmth of a long Mediterranean summer.
Sailing around Sicily is an enchanting experience that combines Mediterranean beauty with the island’s rich cultural and historical heritage. The Sicilian coast offers a mix of vibrant port cities, hidden beaches, and crystal-clear waters ideal for exploration in a smaller vessel. The island’s milder Mediterranean weather allows for more favorable conditions, though it’s still wise to monitor local forecasts for any sudden changes, especially in the Strait of Messina, where currents can be strong. For small-boat sailors, Sicily’s diverse coastline, historical landmarks, and warm local culture make it an unforgettable Mediterranean destination.
"The town of Erice towers above the surrounding countryside, perched at the top of Mount Erice, 750 metres above the sea, which is very close and a very long way down. The town was founded by the Phoenicians and adopted by the Greeks before being destroyed by the Carthaginians in the First Punic War. It was later ruled by the Arabs until the Normans took over in the 12th century. As we saw elsewhere in Sicily, this mixture of cultures has created some wonderful locations, made up of a fascinating blend of influences, and Erice is a perfect example."
"We wandered around the steep, winding streets, walking over beautifully ornate, Moorish patterned tiles, passing shops with colourful displays of fabrics, bags and ornaments and admiring the artistry of the intricate carved stonework that surrounded many of the windows and doorways in the town. We stopped outside the open door of a restaurant, where an antique, wooden cartwheel, casually decorating the entrance area, successfully enticed us inside for lunch. The meal was very simple and the best we had experienced so far in Sicily. It was a famous dish, Pasta ca’ Muddica, which is basically plain pasta, with some oil, garlic and a small amount of pecorino cheese, topped with toasted, grated breadcrumbs. These are apparently used as an alternative to grated Parmesan cheese, a delicacy that was unaffordable in Sicily for much of its history. As we left Erice and returned to Marsala, we felt that our passion for the magic of this Island had been reignited."
"From Mazara del Vallo onwards, things deteriorated rapidly. With the trappings of civilisation falling away completely, we found ourselves skirting around a Third World country not really wanting to stop anywhere. Sciacca, our next stop, is one of the locations that feature in the popular Italian TV drama, Inspector Montalbano, where it appears to be both exotic and historic. To us, it was neither of those things. Instead, it was threatening, dirty and uncomfortable, with suspicious locals acting aggressively, and packs of wild dogs roaming the filthy streets."
"Siracusa was a tale of two cities. The modern-day Siracusa was shabby, dirty and ugly, but Ortigia, the old city of Siracusa and the ancient capital of the Greek empire, was extraordinarily beautiful and quite inspirational."
"The area is rich in myths and legends. The most famous whirlpool is called Charybdis, a mythical sea monster living in an area just north of the Strait of Messina. Three times a day, she would become a huge whirlpool, sucking ships down to their doom under the water. Opposite, there is a town on the Calabrian coast called Scylla, named after a beautiful mythical nymph who also changed into a sea monster, luring mariners to their deaths on the rocks. The twin perils of Scylla and Charybdis are also mentioned in the Odyssey. Odysseus and his crew had a pretty rough time when they passed between them, or so the story goes. Our trip was a lot less stressful!"
