Sailing map of the Ligurian Sea
The first sight of Sanremo from the sea was unforgettable, a sweep of pastel buildings rising above the marina, framed by green hills and the hazy peaks of the Maritime Alps. After such a long trip, the approach felt like a promise kept. We eased into the harbour, the smell of salt mixing with the faint scent of flowers drifting from the shore. Sanremo would be the gateway to our voyage along the Italian Riviera and through the Ligurian Sea, a passage eastward that would carry us past some of the most beautiful coastline in the world.
Sanremo itself was worth lingering for. Known as the City of Flowers, it offered winding lanes, sunlit piazzas, and a promenade where locals strolled in the late afternoon. But the sea was calling, and soon it was time to set a course for the harbours, coves, and villages that dot this fascinating coast, each one with its own charm, each one a page in the story I would later tell in my book.
Extract...
"There is a kind of faded elegance about the Italian Riviera that we found very appealing. To be fair, lots of people find it appealing! We had seen several films set in the area over the years, including The Talented Mr. Ripley, which we had watched just before we left the UK. Although much of the story takes place in Southern Italy, in areas we later visited, there are some scenes set in San Remo that we remembered clearly. The public harbour was very large, with quays on three sides. We were moored about halfway down the outside quay, so it was quite a walk into the centre of the city. Once there, it was open and pleasant, with plenty of shops, Internet cafes and other facilities. We enjoyed walking down to the famous casino, which epitomises the style and charm of the city."
Sailing through Italy is more than just a journey across the sea, it's a passage through history, a brush with beauty, and an intimate encounter with Italy’s soul. When we first arrived in Italy, we knew we were embarking on a transformative adventure, but we never realised just how deeply the experience would weave into our lives. From the comfortable coastline of Liguria, past the historic towns of Tuscany and the Roman grandeur of Lazio, down past the exotic lure of the southern regions to the wild, untamed coastlines of Sicily and the hidden coves of Sardinia, each moment revealed the richness of Italy’s islands and coastlines, transforming our view of Italy into something more profound, more personal. But we are moving ahead of ourselves!
Sailing along the Ligurian coast is an intimate way to explore Italy’s famed Riviera, with its picturesque villages, rugged cliffs, and sparkling turquoise waters. Liguria’s coastline, known for its dramatic beauty, allows small-boat sailors to access hidden coves and charming harbours that larger vessels may miss. Liguria’s temperate climate and relatively calm seas make it an ideal sailing destination, though it’s important to monitor local conditions as the region can experience strong winds, particularly in winter. A little later on, we were to discover this for ourselves, on one terrifying night in La Spezia. But, in the meantime, we enjoyed what was in front of us to the full. Sailing a small boat here is an unforgettable way to experience Liguria’s blend of rich maritime heritage, scenic landscapes, and timeless coastal charm.
Leaving Sanremo, the coastline narrowed into dramatic cliffs as we moved east, and each stop seemed to outshine the last. Imperia welcomed us with its twin harbours, while Alassio tempted us ashore with its golden beach and quiet elegance.
Further along, we moored in Loano and then visited Finale Ligure before continuing to Savona, where we stayed for a little while, and we were joined by our older son and girlfriend, who had come to collect his brother. As they departed for the airport, we sailed past Genoa to the other side of the bay, where we anchored in front of the town of Sestri Levante.
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The next day, we set off down the coast, sailing past the famous villages of Cinque Terre. We stayed close to the shore to make the most of the iconic imagery that unfolded in front of us. There were five villages, one after another, each made up of a series of tall, thin houses, packed closely together and all painted in different shades of brown, yellow, orange, pink and red. They looked as though they were stacked on top of each other as they rose up the rocky hillsides, with terraced vineyards rising up even higher behind them. Sailing down this coast in the bright sunshine, a few hundred metres away from this totally unique landscape, is something we will never forget."
From here, the Ligurian Sea carried us toward the Gulf of La Spezia, where Lerici and Portovenere offered safe anchorages and sweeping views. The journey ended with the lights of La Spezia’s harbour ahead, and the sense that we had sailed not just through a region, but through centuries of maritime history.
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"The Gulf of La Spezia is a huge natural harbour also known as the Bay of Poets due to the area’s popularity with writers and artists over the years. Approaching from the north, there is a narrow entrance between the headland and the Isola Palmaria. As we turned inside, we passed the pretty town and harbour of Portovenere on the left. This was a favourite spot of the English poet, Lord Byron, who apparently used to swim from here across the gulf to visit his friend, Percy Bysshe Shelley, who lived near Lerici on the other side."
"During the night, things deteriorated dramatically. It is the only time we have ever been scared for our lives, moored up in a marina! The wind continued to howl through the rigging, and the mast was shuddering with the pressure. The size of the waves increased to at least two metres, which is a frightening amount of movement when you are on a boat, surrounded by other boats and large amounts of concrete. The sight of the entire pontoon, three metres wide and twenty metres long, rising and falling on a two-metre swell, is quite something to behold! Then a yacht broke free of its mooring in front of us and bounced backwards and forwards, smashing itself to pieces against the pontoon and other yachts for hours. Remarkably, it stayed afloat!"
Life aboard followed the familiar rhythm of a coastal voyage. Mornings began with coffee in the cockpit and a quick check of the weather before preparing for that day's sail. The days unfolded in a mix of navigation and quiet stretches under a steady breeze. Evenings meant exploring the towns we had only glimpsed from afar, tasting local pesto, or sipping wine as the sun slipped behind the horizon. Along this stretch of the Italian coast, distances between ports are short, yet the variety is astonishing. One day you’re in a bustling city like Sanremo, the next you’re moored in a fishing village where time feels suspended. It’s a sailor’s dream, a coastline that can be savoured slowly, one harbour at a time.
Sailing the Italian Riviera taught us the joy of slowing down and appreciating detail, the curve of a bay, the sound of waves against a stone pier, the smell of basil carried on the breeze. The Ligurian Sea may be smaller than some, but it offers a richness of experience that rewards every mile sailed. This part of our voyage, beginning with our arrival in Sanremo and ending in La Spezia, became more than just a passage; it became a chapter in our story as sailors, one I’ve shared in full within my book. There, you’ll find every port, every challenge, and every quiet moment at anchor that shaped this journey.
If you’ve ever dreamed of sailing the Italian Riviera and the Ligurian Sea, or if you simply enjoy tales of adventure, culture, and the sea, my book offers the complete account. It’s a story of wind, water, and the enduring magic of Italy’s coastline.
